紅酒中的果味與單寧味,就如餸菜中的甜味跟鹹味一樣,兩者不能分割.烹飪時,加入適當的糖份可以令料理更多層次,味道更多元化.在葡萄酒中,單寧那略為乾燥的苦澀味則為紅酒提供著架構,豐富口感.
單寧味過重的紅酒就如一杯過濃的鐵觀音:麻木舌頭,令人難以欣賞.相反,只有果味及甜味的紅酒則像一罐 Fruit Punch,令人感到兒戲.缺乏單寧的紅酒一般的陳年能力亦相當有限,這是因為單寧是優秀的抗氧化劑,能防止葡萄酒因過早因氧化而變酸.
這裡顯然有個矛盾:若紅酒中沒有一定的單寧,人們難以感到酒質的宏偉;但另一方面,含有大量單寧的酒則需要大量的果味才能把苦澀味平衡,這與在蜜汁火腿一道菜中,以甜味來平衡鹹味的道理是一樣的.
在皓熱年份裡出產的葡萄酒,一般酸度偏低但果香澎湃.這種酒,頗多的人感到不用通過陳年來把單寧軟化,已能馬上享用那濃烈的味道.
這個理論的最大實行者也許是澳洲 McLaren Vale 的釀酒夫婦 Sarah and Sparky Marquis.成功建立了一連串極受市場歡迎的紅酒,如 Henry’s Drive,Shirvington 及 Marquis Phillips後,他們在 2005 創辦了屬於兩人的新酒莊 Mollydooker (註:即左撇子的意思).Mollydooker 所出產的酒除了使用熟成度奇高的葡萄外,更在入樽時注入了微量的氮氣以防止氧化,盡量保存果味.須知道這些酒是用來及時享樂,而不是用來陳年觀賞的.
較特別的是,Moolydooker 的酒在飲用前需要把酒樽倒立搖動,像可口可樂一般把氮氣排走後才能飲用,打算及時享樂的朋友們在開瓶時可別忘記留意四方的目光了…
2006 Mollydooker Blue Eyed Boy Shiraz (16%,McLaren Vale,Australia)
Price: $100-500 HKD
Comment: A full bodied Shiraz which is named after the blue eyed son of Sarah and Sparky, Luke. It started off with loads of upfront fruit and lactic acid, making it rather like an alcoholic milkshake!! Jammy, yet with a lot of tannin underneath the fruits, it took this wine almost 3 hours to reveal some sort of structure. By then, my dinner was already finished!! Maybe I should opened this wine one day before dinner, or, maybe I should taste this wine again in 10, or 20 years… or... never again!
Overall: If you are a hedonist, or if you want to understand what is a “fruit bomb”, this is your wine.